i love watching people interact with their ocean: the ocean they grew up next to with its moods and colors, smells, attitudes, dangers, pleasures.
the relationship we develop with the sea is one which takes time and patience. localism.... there is no place like home, the slice of ocean known best by proximity, the comfort of familiarity, of family.
the fishermen in their dory pictured above took this boat out on a solid 8-9 foot, long period south swell. amazing.
2 comments:
Nothing can ever beat scoring the breaks you grew up around. For me at least.
i couldn't agree more. if you consider the word localism in a positive light--completely different vernacular-- then maybe it can represent love of the home break, the magic that happens when you are on familiar turf. it doesn't matter where i've been, i always love that first good surf after coming home.
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