i love waking up to bright light, contrasting shadows. (this doesn't happen much in oregon...)
i love being on a wave, looking down the line and realizing, "hey, this waves isn't going to fuck me over!" (this, also, doesn't happen often in oregon).
i love low-budget oregon surf films, their honesty and humility, the accurate portrayal of life
i love longboarding.
i love surfboarding.
i love waveriding.
i love the sea, its perimeter, its inhabitants, its moods.