Sunday, May 1, 2011

lightness



i love waking up to bright light, contrasting shadows. (this doesn't happen much in oregon...)


i love being on a wave, looking down the line and realizing, "hey, this waves isn't going to fuck me over!" (this, also, doesn't happen often in oregon).


i love low-budget oregon surf films, their honesty and humility, the accurate portrayal of life

here.


i love longboarding.


i love surfboarding.


i love waveriding.


i love the sea, its perimeter, its inhabitants, its moods.








1 comment:

Gaz said...

We need a pic of a wave that doesn't fuck one over!