Tuesday, January 12, 2010

girls. surf. camp.

reason # 1 to avoid ye olde surf lodge aka mr shred's central american surf hostel, etc, etc: empty point breaks x 3... no reggae-tone bumping from the beach, no bars, no theives, no bros, nada. just waves, waves, waves... and the occasional parrot flying through the trees.
the walk to the beach includes only this: trees, sand, hermit crabs, and the sound of empty waves crashing in perfect lines across empty reefs. ahhhhh.


view from the bedroom. we buried our passports in the sand. packed in enough food for the duration of our stay. there weren't stores or any other places to get provisions. a local helped us refill our water jugs with rain water. thank god, because we got thirsty surfing 6 hours a day.


um, yeah. that's just one of thousands of empty spitting barrels. yeee-haw!


i am not kidding. we surfed so much that we couldn't imagine another wave, and still, we had to watch hours of empty perfection go unridden. this is what a surf safari was meant to be.
its out there if you want it badly enough.


6 comments:

R said...

Cool to know you can still do that at Matapalo. Figured it was blown like a lot of Costa is now. Posted up there for month on 2 occasions, over 10 years ago now. Used to hitch or bus in the Jimenez for supplies and a cold beers once a week. Backpacking style water filters are a must for feral surf trips.

surf: karmic voyager said...

i have no idea what you are talking about. no one said anything about costa rica.

R said...

Oh my bad. You said Central America so.....

Guess it reminded me of a place I did the same, a right just across from Pavones, just inside tip of the Osa Penn. Had a waterfall nearby too. What a coincidence, but there are places like this all over the tropics. Check it out though if you like this sort of stuff. It’s the Puria Vida Costa claims. And I agree, surf camps suck. Thanks for the memories.

Good day-

Wet and Cold said...

very nice ;)

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surf: karmic voyager said...

huh... never heard of any of that.