how i almost lost my leg to george greenough...

i accidentally threw a 2 GB SD card into the fireplace a few days ago. in desperation, i went looking though some old electronics crap and found a 1GB card, and was pleasantly surprised by this little trip back through time that i discovered hiding on the card...

ominous looking darkness. i love pics from the surfers perspective. i suck at surf photography (its harder than it looks, taking pics from a surfboard while still trying to score waves). this is the day that i almost cut my leg off in the middle of nowhere, central america. emily and i were surfing alone and i was riding one of her hand-shaped single fin 7'2" boards. cool board: not much rocker and the greenough fin was a fucking champ in all kinds of conditions.

emily rode the 6'1" and probably fared better on this particular day, especially as the tide started to go out and things got more hollow...

towards the end of the day as i was getting cocky, i decided to take a late drop... got hung up in the lip and the board flipped over and situated itself right below me, right in the pit. you know that feeling? the realization about 1 nanosecond before you get worked really bad....

when i felt the impact of leg-on-fin i thought i had cut my leg off. i almost puked. luckily, all parts were still attached. just a lot of blood and a really awesome bruise that gave me some street cred...

most righteous. emily nursed me back to health with a litre of shitty, warm beer and fried plaintains. hell yeah.... i still have the scar. it always makes me smile.