i am thankful for the circumstances that have allowed me the joy of being here for the winter.
before i moved close to the ocean, i would have read the bouy reports, assumed it was too big, and passed on days like these, afraid of the 3 hour car committment that may not have panned out...
the last 8 days have looked like this. i am surfed out. got my first barrel yesterday. i've died and gone to heaven... on the drive home i smiled at the llamas, the chickens, the cows, the horses and all of the peace that surrounds me.
i am thankful for the circumstances that have allowed me the joy of being here for the winter.
before i moved close to the ocean, i would have read the bouy reports, assumed it was too big, and passed on days like these, afraid of the 3 hour car committment that may not have panned out...
the last 8 days have looked like this. i am surfed out. got my first barrel yesterday. i've died and gone to heaven... on the drive home i smiled at the llamas, the chickens, the cows, the horses and all of the peace that surrounds me.
7 comments:
Did you come out?
'78 was better...
Or was that '77?
Doc
didn't get out clean. got the glass axe at the end and paid dearly in hold down, cold water, adrenaline. totally worth it.
Love it. Can I come visit when I'm in OR? xox
NICE! yet coming out of a glass shack clean is not always for the best...always leaves you wondering if you could have been a little deeper, stayed a little longer.
awesome! i feel jobless cause this surf has outshadowed everything. 3 sessions this week i couldnt be happier with. Oh shit, was i supposed to go to work today?
YAO! South Beach off it's rocker. Need to get down there next time conditons coinside.
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