Thursday, December 10, 2009

swell of a lifetime

i am thankful for the circumstances that have allowed me the joy of being here for the winter.
before i moved close to the ocean, i would have read the bouy reports, assumed it was too big, and passed on days like these, afraid of the 3 hour car committment that may not have panned out...
the last 8 days have looked like this. i am surfed out. got my first barrel yesterday. i've died and gone to heaven... on the drive home i smiled at the llamas, the chickens, the cows, the horses and all of the peace that surrounds me.

7 comments:

Gaz said...

Did you come out?

Wave Farmer said...

'78 was better...
Or was that '77?

Doc

surf: karmic voyager said...

didn't get out clean. got the glass axe at the end and paid dearly in hold down, cold water, adrenaline. totally worth it.

Monique said...

Love it. Can I come visit when I'm in OR? xox

turtle said...

NICE! yet coming out of a glass shack clean is not always for the best...always leaves you wondering if you could have been a little deeper, stayed a little longer.

Wet and Cold said...

awesome! i feel jobless cause this surf has outshadowed everything. 3 sessions this week i couldnt be happier with. Oh shit, was i supposed to go to work today?

R said...

YAO! South Beach off it's rocker. Need to get down there next time conditons coinside.