day, after day, after day.
my arms are sore,
my face is sunburned,
my spring suit is back in the rotation, currently drying on the fence
from a 2 hour sunset surf
in balmy water.
the usual suspects are here to stay:
pods of sea lions,
myths of 18 foot sharks roaming neaby jetties,
rare sightings of valley kooks
plying 8 to 10 foot swells with soggy arms
eager aggression, completely out-of-place
(now that the ocean is showing real power)
funny, last night, a proto-typical male, 20-something,
short white surfboard with 3 fins,
all of the obvious markings
chest lifted (just high enough) off of his board to prove
that he surfs infrequently... arms, ineffective as paddles, pawing at water--
clearly, this male human was struggling with the intense inner sand bar beating
that makes and breaks days like these...
he arrives at my peak, finally, wobbly, uncertain.
this wave i love, a shifty right with a small takeoff zone
takes its own prisoners, has no mercy on this particular day
and of course, there is no room for error: things are moving fast and heavy, lots of water
but, alas a wave comes and i am in position, deep, just deep enough and my
new valley friend is sitting to my right, so i take off and call him off the wave as he starts to
flail in the direction of the shoulder...
he proceeds to purposefully drop in on me, then wave me on,
"bring it!" he waved at me... and all the while i am thinking,
"i would love to send this 30 pound single fin volan log your way, my friend, at your face, or
how i would love to send it right at your made-in-taiwan predictably
unoriginal foam and epoxy floatation device..."
but instead, i get my waves, sit back, laugh with friends in the line up and watch as
he sulks, then paddles deeper than me, to a totally unmakeable spot...
... a spot where he takes beating after beating, going over the falls, getting axed by
heavy lips of cold water... a spot that only a foreigner would mistake as a possibility.
perfect karma. i am happy. i get my overhead walls, steep and fast, crouched on the nose waiting for all hell to break loose as the velocity of all this water catches up with the inside
sand bar, all energy hitting the breaks as water flies overhead...
engulfed, swallowed, spit out. i go back for more, laughing, smiling. i am home.
this is my wave. i surf it every day. how dare you drop in on someone here?
bring it, is what he said to me... interesting.
sit on the peaks,
channel the karma.