Monday, December 21, 2009

pin the tail on...

give me a pin tail or give me death. ok, maybe not death... i do love these shapes.. but they could be heavier...

Oh, Oregon....such a funny place to ride the waves.  I've been getting my fair share of curiosity from the old guard, what with my (DANGEROUS!!! I GOT 14 STITCHES IN MY HEAD BLAH blah blah from someone like u...) leashless profile, the rolled bottom 50/50 boards (nary another like it to be found here, a'least not by the local shapers so far as i can tell), single fins, fixed gear, free-heel backcountry vegan biodiesel wool wetsuit bohemia in a bikini and lets not forget i walked from blodgett, oregon to get to the saltwater... (ok, not really but...)
some dude got real cranky with me a few days ago when he noticed that i was without the "safety" of a 10 foot rubber cord attached to my ankle. those that, when stretched at the end of a 9'8" 27 pound bludgeoning device could really do some damage to anything (skulls, as one example) within a 20 foot radius of said ankle. he claims to have been surfing for 40 years.
i laughed (quietly, to myself) and proceeded to tip toe around on my board for a few hours without causing any trouble. i did enjoy watching, from the safety of a nice little shoulder, the collision of several well leashed (well heeled?) and completely unpoised men/boards etc in a lovely little display of what i like to call lackofselfcontrol. goddam i luv it. never dull.
i'm getting a surf mat, and you can be sure i will not be hassling anybody for their danger factors in relation to my soft little underbelly freestyle mushmula.
xo

2 comments:

Faron said...

dude how can you shred the yeti without a leash. yah/.

surf: karmic voyager said...

magical powers and lots of resolve