lightness

i love waking up to bright light, contrasting shadows. (this doesn't happen much in oregon...)

i love being on a wave, looking down the line and realizing, "hey, this waves isn't going to fuck me over!" (this, also, doesn't happen often in oregon).

i love low-budget oregon surf films, their honesty and humility, the accurate portrayal of life

here.

i love longboarding.

i love surfboarding.

i love waveriding.

i love the sea, its perimeter, its inhabitants, its moods.