Monday, December 10, 2012


                        kevin on a non-california wave.

"a sideslip on a surfboard properly executed is very much like a great sports car thrown into a four wheel drift.  pushing it in and pulling it through with all of the unweighting and down-biting.  heel and toe techniques control both" - Miklos Kornel Dora, 1963

the trek over cityscapes, yielding dunescapes, brings one to a place where sun pours down onto a nearly empty beach.  this is a perspective of the city i never expected to understand or love.  but alas, i become more and more fond of this outerland, this edge of the continent, this perimeter of the second-most-dense city in the U.S. i have kevin to thank for getting my ass out to surf Ohh-Bee today (finally!) after getting denied/intimidated one too many times... 

not sports car racing today; rather, quiet time in the ocean with dolphins, sunshine and little glassy micro bombs.

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