Tuesday, May 10, 2011

so, you like...

...the tropics?

you've come to the wrong place, friends. the frigid sand-colored closeout clamshell barrels from hell are neither warm nor welcoming this morning. not the 3 inches of water that the waves were breaking into, nor the stong current pulling through crab holes towards the jetty.

neither the grey sky, nor the chill breeze.

i am reaching for anything. suiting up in the house to avoid the cold. suiting up in the patagonia, the R4, $$$$ , yeah, that suit, wooly goodness, hard on the bank account but 98.6 inside, and yet, even with all of this over-priced luxury comfort, nothing can peel my bootied feet from where i am entrenched, staring into this complete crap hole of a "surf break" wondering how will i ever get my ass into the water? how will i paddle a 9'2" hull through hollow, shallow tubes? and the better question: why? i finally resolve to bag the plan. surfing is for surfers.


chester said...

Aw, quit yer whinin' ya little sissy la la!
Oh, ha ha, I declined to paddle out into the frothy, chest-high closeouts, mixed with the occasional overhead cleanup set on Sunday, too.
One of the toughest things I've had to face surfing in Oregon is pulling on all that friggin' rubber for the first time after an extended stay in tropical climes.
No, this isn't the tropics, but the good days we have here can stand up to any I've had in say Mexico or Hawaii. Its a different kind of beautiful. Its our kind. Its in us, its who we are. Admit it, you know you love it. We're the lucky ones.
It just takes a little extra inner strength and courage to be a surfer here.
And patience.
At work not so long ago, I printed a brochure bearing the picture of a young woman in Oregon, standing in the rain, at the edge of the sea in her hooded wetsuit, a surfboard under her arm. The smile on her face, the look in her eyes, showed that inner strength, and a sense of pride to be who she was.
An Oregon surf girl.
I had to admire her, (whoever she was) no doubt a source of inspiration to many more people than she will ever know.
Hang in there, S:KV, warm(er) weather is just around the corner (July 5th!)
Now close your eyes, click your heels three times (circles magic wand over head) and repeat after me...

Sarah Cruse said...

Hey There!
It's Sarah Cruse.
I wasn't sure how else to reach you.
I know this is way out of the blue but I was wondering if you may want Stan.
I have to find him a new home. I have to move and have been having some health problems and just can't take care of him anymore.
It's unfortunate and he's a great little kitty.
I have been searching for a new home for him but only have 1 more month before I may have to give him to a shelter and hope to avoid that.
I thought it may be an interesting full circle kind of a situation if there was a place for him in your life, these days.
Let me know either way. It would be lovely to hear from you!
Thanks! I hope you are well!