Monday, January 10, 2011





the ocean has been behaving herself nicely this week. here are a few blurry views as seen through my very cheap camera, complete with foggy/greasy lens, poor focus, slanted horizons and bad timing.
the water is cold, but the real struggle is psychological:
arriving at the beach in your warm car with sun streaming in through the windows is one thing, but exiting said automobile to find the sand frozen solid with frost and a 28 degree windchill in the clear air and then finding the motivation to strip off woolens and denim to don soggy cold neoprene is quite another.
whether or not one actually surfs in oregon during the winter months is almost exclusively a matter of motivation.
it looks good...

2 comments:

R said...

PeeOoo? Thought you were all Newped out now?

Whatever happened to "surf where you live"?

turtle said...

cold and clean...i'd take it.
It may be hard to comprehend from your perspective but the cold is a gift. Keeps the kooks at bay, the water clear and the people paddling out, honest. I was always (more than) happy to share waves with anyone out for a Jan-Feb. run of cold, clean surf. Some of the best days of the year in my humble opinion.

More hot tea= more warm pee...in the wet-teee