Friday, September 24, 2010

the extension of the human

here's the voyager after about 1 solid year of use and abuse. she's brought me incredible amounts of joy, glide, trim, a few barrels, lots of close-outs, turns, speed, smiles.
7'1" x 21 1/2" x 2 3/4" the widest part of this board is about 6 inches north of center... heavy glass, double 6 oz volan on the deck, extra weight for extra speed... just right for making some almost unmakeable oregon beach break sections, the miracle of momentum... she's the perfect oregon board.
nothing can equal the immense satisfaction of riding your very own hand-made surf craft. since the creation of the karmic voyager, my first board, i have grown to love surfing even more than i could have previously imagined. every moment on a wave when riding one's own creation is incredibly intimate... somehow the connection to the ocean's energy is strengthened by the ongoing interactions between the curves of board, curves of water, shape of rails brought forth by the same hands that paddle, that touch water every day, that are cold and water logged as dusk becomes night-- these hands that hold rails, that know exactly where to go when it's time to tuck into a tight spot on a wave, these fingers that skim along the face of a perfect left when going backside, down the line, against a wall of water, ever moving, always rising up off the sand, reeling out in front-- these hands know what this is... the board beneath the human is an extension of the human... the mind, the desires, the abilities, the shortcomings... the imagination, the patience, the frustration, the ever-present need to get into the pacific, the keeper of peace.

1 comment:

patrick said...

That board is definitely an extension of nice to have seen it in person, with you on it!