Bolinas California.Tsunami warning.
We suited up and walked into the ocean to the horror of observers and do-gooders on the beach. it was my birthday, and i was prepared to die. there was not the option of missing my single-most important birthday ritual, the baptismal, the communion with my favorite friend, the sea. not a chance.
thanks to mother nature, a full moon, swinging tides, all of earths great forces pulling the tektonics hither and yon... the coast of chile dished up a monster wave that kept all of san francisco at home on an otherwise lovely day. the ocean was all ours. what an awesome birthday present: i was in marin county on a sunny saturday and there were no surfers to contend with other than my die-hard friends (whom, after a breakfast of beef grits, muenster eggs and sauerkraut potatoes ala nellyda had no choice but to follow me out into the ocean, taking life and limb in hand, and why not?).
celebrate what you will. it's all there for the taking.
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