why should one surf report stand out in a world of over indulgence?
isn't it just one long, blurry ride, anyway?
when we are ancient humans, crumbling beneath the weight of gravity, fighting god,
laying at death's door, will it matter which waves were had on
in the mind's eye we will almost certainly see our own perfect empty walls of glass
holding for infinity
(frontside, of course)
so we can be radical
does it matter how special it was today?
11 ft @ 16 seconds, yet somehow in the lee of a jetty it was just overhead, peeling,
offering perfection to those willing to don 5mm of neoprene and fight the waning tide.
does it matter that as the sun was setting
a trio of sea lions got close enough to make me nervous?
or that, with tired arms,
i paddled into a clam shell of a wave
on a home-made board
and was hooted at by smiling strangers.
does it matter that is was perfect for a few hours or
that 10 people were there to surf it?
this isn't something you will find documented anywhere tangible
except within the water-proof pages of your own imagination
where the story has been continuously written
(in the voice of the sea, the beginning of all creation)
since the dawn of time.