kevin on a non-california wave.
"a sideslip on a surfboard properly executed is very much like a great sports car thrown into a four wheel drift. pushing it in and pulling it through with all of the unweighting and down-biting. heel and toe techniques control both" - Miklos Kornel Dora, 1963
the trek over cityscapes, yielding dunescapes, brings one to a place where sun pours down onto a nearly empty beach. this is a perspective of the city i never expected to understand or love. but alas, i become more and more fond of this outerland, this edge of the continent, this perimeter of the second-most-dense city in the U.S. i have kevin to thank for getting my ass out to surf Ohh-Bee today (finally!) after getting denied/intimidated one too many times...
not sports car racing today; rather, quiet time in the ocean with dolphins, sunshine and little glassy micro bombs.
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