i heart cali4nia

i love california. i love road trips. i love my wooden fish. i love right point breaks. yeah!!!!

cabin pressure

maybe being left to my own devices for days on end is bad? the cabin gives me lots of time to go crazy in my own head. i don't know. yesterday i got bored and decided to start painting with my left hand (i am right handed). i sort of enjoy the challenge, and the abstraction is pretty cool....

top turns... i've been having magical moments on Lars' wooden 6'2" fish. i can't say enough about those wooden boards, or about fishes in general, especially when you have to make really fast, crappy sections on sketchy waves. i am in love.

this is supposed to be dane perlee, somewhere in west oz. can't you tell? yeah....

the road to nowhere

this is a total sell out. someone told me once that blogs with girls in bikinis are popular. well, here is my ass on a sloping shoulder. could be any ass, any wave, any person.

this is totally unsexy, but coffee is like crack: must have it at all times no matter what. it is the key ingredient in getting the aformentioned ass out of the soggy tropical tent and into aformentioned bikini, and of course, out to the ocean.

oh yeah.... total sell out shot of girl in bikini in water fall. fresh water is hard to come by when camping for weeks on end. this was the closest we got to showering for many, many days.

gourmet camping! yeah... canned beans, canned jalapenos, sweaty cheese and boxed vino. mmmm. delicious.

who put that wig on my head? oh wait...that is my own hair. what the f@#%!? disgusting. i am a total hippie feral mountain pony. this should easily balance out the bikini shots. i think this was taken before we started camping. god help me.

girls. surf. camp.

reason # 1 to avoid ye olde surf lodge aka mr shred's central american surf hostel, etc, etc: empty point breaks x 3... no reggae-tone bumping from the beach, no bars, no theives, no bros, nada. just waves, waves, waves... and the occasional parrot flying through the trees.

the walk to the beach includes only this: trees, sand, hermit crabs, and the sound of empty waves crashing in perfect lines across empty reefs. ahhhhh.

view from the bedroom. we buried our passports in the sand. packed in enough food for the duration of our stay. there weren't stores or any other places to get provisions. a local helped us refill our water jugs with rain water. thank god, because we got thirsty surfing 6 hours a day.

um, yeah. that's just one of thousands of empty spitting barrels. yeee-haw!

i am not kidding. we surfed so much that we couldn't imagine another wave, and still, we had to watch hours of empty perfection go unridden. this is what a surf safari was meant to be.
its out there if you want it badly enough.

how i almost lost my leg to george greenough...

i accidentally threw a 2 GB SD card into the fireplace a few days ago. in desperation, i went looking though some old electronics crap and found a 1GB card, and was pleasantly surprised by this little trip back through time that i discovered hiding on the card...

ominous looking darkness. i love pics from the surfers perspective. i suck at surf photography (its harder than it looks, taking pics from a surfboard while still trying to score waves). this is the day that i almost cut my leg off in the middle of nowhere, central america. emily and i were surfing alone and i was riding one of her hand-shaped single fin 7'2" boards. cool board: not much rocker and the greenough fin was a fucking champ in all kinds of conditions.

emily rode the 6'1" and probably fared better on this particular day, especially as the tide started to go out and things got more hollow...

towards the end of the day as i was getting cocky, i decided to take a late drop... got hung up in the lip and the board flipped over and situated itself right below me, right in the pit. you know that feeling? the realization about 1 nanosecond before you get worked really bad....

when i felt the impact of leg-on-fin i thought i had cut my leg off. i almost puked. luckily, all parts were still attached. just a lot of blood and a really awesome bruise that gave me some street cred...

most righteous. emily nursed me back to health with a litre of shitty, warm beer and fried plaintains. hell yeah.... i still have the scar. it always makes me smile.