Monday, December 28, 2009

the barbaric sea





Surfing and painting are all that move me at the present time. Work seems a distant nuissance, though admittedly I will have to engage in the capitalist endeavors that drive the human race sooner than later. I've honed my skills with an axe. Too bad I can't make kindling for a living. All pretentions aside (and to think that living can be done without money is just shy of extreme pretention...) the savings account is running dry.

The "new year," as it is called, is a hoax. Each day is a chance to start over, begin something, take a bite, drop in, bury the hatchet, shed the coat, spray paint the garage door bright neon orange....

As for the thoughts I've been mulling over in this somewhat hungry brain of mine, here is a quote that epitomizes them quite perfectly...

"To what avail the plough or sail, or love, or life -- if freedom fail? Freedom. Freedom to what? Escape, run, wonder turning your back on a cowed society that stutters, staggers, and satnates every man for himself and fuck you Jack I've got mine? To be truly challenging, a voyage, like life, must rest on a firm foundation of financial unrest. Otherwise you are doomed to a routine traverse, the kind known to yachtsmen, who play with their boats at sea --"cruising" it is called. Voyaging belongs to the sea men, and to the wonderers of the world who cannot or will not fit in. Little has been said or written about the ways a man may blast himself free. Why? I don't know, unless the answer lies in our diseased values....Men are enmeshed in the cancerous discipline of "security", and in the worship of security we fling our lives beneath the wheels of routine--and before we know it our lives are gone.What does a man really need --- really need? A few pounds of food each day, heat and shelter, six feet to lie down in ---and some form of working activity that will yield a sense of accomplishment. That's all --- in the material sense. But we are brainwashed by our economic system until we end up in a tomb beneath a pyramid of time payments, mortgages, preposterous gadgetry, playthings that divert our attention from the sheer idiocy of the charade. The years thunder by. The dreams of youth grow dim where they like caked in dust on the shelves of patience. Before we know it, the tomb is sealed. Dedication to the sea is the symbol of migration and movement and wondering. It is the barbaric place and it stands opposed to society and it is a constant symbol in all of literature, too. As Thomas Wolfe said, "It is the state of barbaric disorder out of which civilization has emerged and into which it is liable to return."----Stearling Hayden, Wonderer, 1964

Happiest of new days, every day.
xo





Friday, December 25, 2009

the channel


"There is a vitality, a life force, an energy that is translated through you into action. And because there is only one you in all time, this expression is unique. If you block it, it will never exist through any other medium: the world will not have it. It is not your business to determine how good it is, nor how valuable, nor how it compares with other expressions. It is your business to keep it yours clearly and directly, to keep the channel open."

--Martha Graham

Monday, December 21, 2009

pin the tail on...

give me a pin tail or give me death. ok, maybe not death... i do love these shapes.. but they could be heavier...

Oh, Oregon....such a funny place to ride the waves.  I've been getting my fair share of curiosity from the old guard, what with my (DANGEROUS!!! I GOT 14 STITCHES IN MY HEAD BLAH blah blah from someone like u...) leashless profile, the rolled bottom 50/50 boards (nary another like it to be found here, a'least not by the local shapers so far as i can tell), single fins, fixed gear, free-heel backcountry vegan biodiesel wool wetsuit bohemia in a bikini and lets not forget i walked from blodgett, oregon to get to the saltwater... (ok, not really but...)
some dude got real cranky with me a few days ago when he noticed that i was without the "safety" of a 10 foot rubber cord attached to my ankle. those that, when stretched at the end of a 9'8" 27 pound bludgeoning device could really do some damage to anything (skulls, as one example) within a 20 foot radius of said ankle. he claims to have been surfing for 40 years.
i laughed (quietly, to myself) and proceeded to tip toe around on my board for a few hours without causing any trouble. i did enjoy watching, from the safety of a nice little shoulder, the collision of several well leashed (well heeled?) and completely unpoised men/boards etc in a lovely little display of what i like to call lackofselfcontrol. goddam i luv it. never dull.
i'm getting a surf mat, and you can be sure i will not be hassling anybody for their danger factors in relation to my soft little underbelly freestyle mushmula.
xo

Sunday, December 20, 2009

moss: landing

the surf has been messy. i've decided to take watercolor painting more seriously. i finally bought some good paint and good paper. here is my favorite painting from this week. i gave it to Mo because she is awesome, loves the ocean, and is a surfer girl like myself.

the cabin is a good, quiet place to hang out and do art. lots of mossy trees and fog and good light coming in through the glass. only chickens around these days to keep me company; plenty of wood in the wood shed. the well has only failed once this week, reminding me just how much i used to take luxuries for granted, such as readily available drinking (and washing) water. living in the city was not good for me. as for my newest discoveries-- i've gotten better at baking bread and sitting still. i like having no cell phone, no internet and no traffic. all of this stillness makes me realize how much noise was in my brain for so many years. i think it's getting quieter now...

Thursday, December 10, 2009

swell of a lifetime

i am thankful for the circumstances that have allowed me the joy of being here for the winter.
before i moved close to the ocean, i would have read the bouy reports, assumed it was too big, and passed on days like these, afraid of the 3 hour car committment that may not have panned out...
the last 8 days have looked like this. i am surfed out. got my first barrel yesterday. i've died and gone to heaven... on the drive home i smiled at the llamas, the chickens, the cows, the horses and all of the peace that surrounds me.

Sunday, December 6, 2009

sun spots




be kind, because everyone you'll ever meet is fighting a hard battle.

Friday, December 4, 2009

does it matter?

why should one surf report stand out in a world of over indulgence?
isn't it just one long, blurry ride, anyway?

when we are ancient humans, crumbling beneath the weight of gravity, fighting god,
laying at death's door, will it matter which waves were had on
tuesday
sunday
tahiti
oregon?

in the mind's eye we will almost certainly see our own perfect empty walls of glass
holding for infinity
(frontside, of course)
so we can be radical
(if possible)

does it matter how special it was today?
11 ft @ 16 seconds, yet somehow in the lee of a jetty it was just overhead, peeling,
offering perfection to those willing to don 5mm of neoprene and fight the waning tide.

does it matter that as the sun was setting
a trio of sea lions got close enough to make me nervous?
or that, with tired arms,
i paddled into a clam shell of a wave
on a home-made board
and was hooted at by smiling strangers.

does it matter that is was perfect for a few hours or
that 10 people were there to surf it?
this isn't something you will find documented anywhere tangible
except within the water-proof pages of your own imagination
where the story has been continuously written
(in the voice of the sea, the beginning of all creation)
since the dawn of time.

Thursday, December 3, 2009

winter surf is...

i love days like this... the reward for sticking it out, here in oregon, where the earth has tilted her face away from the sun, we find ourselves even more grateful for the beauty of solar energy, the star, the beginning of all weather, translated into waveforms in the water.... the ultimate gift for those who live with open eyes and who are not afraid of cold fingers and 5mm wetsuits.
you could not go wrong these last few days, crystal clear skies, lines to the horizon, smiling famililar faces in the ocean, pods of sea lions barking in the line up (unknown friends beneath the surface of course, but they are always there, watching us...), perfect a-frames and glassy faces, all manor of wave craft flying down the line, smiles on every countenance. this is what it is all about. we know that there are warmer places and that all of these oceans are connected. we are surfing indonesia and india and africa, just one big body of water dotted by continents.

i found a place in the coast range. ken kesey would be jealous. lots of quiet, and only about 30 miles from my favorite break on the central coast. no longer do i have to live out of the back of a toyota station wagon. soon, i can start shaping the next board!







even when the beach breaks are too big, there are hidden gems like this one. i have been logging all kinds of hours on the karmic voyager and any number of single fin boards shaped by the hand of people more expert than myself.
surf to surf, not to be seen.